Click the link below to download the latest compiled Arduino hex code (Currently version 2.40).
Get Code (you will need to unzip the code before you can upload it to your Arduino).
Note: if you are using an RGB (colour) LCD display you should connect pin D4 on the Arduino to ground (GND), otherwise leave D4 floating if using a mono LCD display. The code checks this pin at power-up and will use the colour features of the display, if it finds one, to highlight the different operating modes of the EchoTapper unit.
To upload this code to your Arduino you need a suitable uploader. Update 20/10/2013: I previously recommended the Arduino Uno Uploader tool but it seems to no longer work so now please use XLoader which can be downloaded here.
By using this tool you don’t need to know how to compile source code, just connect the USB port on your EchoTapper’s Arduino UNO to your Windows PC and use the tool to upload the hex code to the Uno. The Uno will automatically reset and start running the new code. You can check it worked by looking at the version number given in the start-up message.
Includes support for the hardware built with a rotary encoder.
Update: The latest User Guide (as of January 2014) is here
EchoTapper Automation User Guide Version 2.0 (pdf)
Building instructions for the MIDI + EEPROM Shield as used in my EchoTapper Valve Unit.
MIDI+EEPROM Shield Building Instructions (pdf)
Source for the protoshield pcb and stackable headers on eBay here
… is in the testing.
While searching for something else altogether I came across and old digital thermometer project that I never finished. It was to control the heater for my hot water tank 😉 but it would be handy to check my heat sink temperature. As you can see below, after being on for 20-30 minutes the temperature settled around 47-48 C.
Despite mounting the 6V regulator (which feeds the valve heaters) on the rear aluminium panel, I felt it was still getting a little hotter than I would like so I mounted a finned heat-sink to the panel and that seems to help the cooling quite a bit. If you are going to do this, make sure you remove the area of the vinyl label under the heat-sink to improve the thermal conduction.
After running the unit for an extended period I was also worried about the temperature of the Arduino Uno’s on-board regulator. Arduino recommend an input voltage of 7-12V but the unregulated 12V from ecca’s board was more like 14.5V. I therefore have fitted a separate 9V regulator to supply the Arduino and it is now running much cooler 🙂